Hello traveller, we’ve come back alive from our minimally planned East Coast road trip, and I’m here to spill all the memorable moments, some not-so-glamorous moments, and moments that we’d plan differently. Sit tight and buckle up my friend; it will be a butt-numbing long ride in the best way possible, or so I hope.
Note:
If you’re looking for a quick and dirty summary guide with cost breakdowns, you’re in the wrong post. This one consists of unnecessary sappy stories. It’s a glorified journal entry with a photo gallery. Click HERE to get in and out with the golden nuggets.
Note x2:
Images are all taken by Android phones with no post-production. You can think of the author as authentic or lazy. Heck, why not both?
Okay, now that we got that out of the way, I’ll assume you’re here for the ~stories~. I’ll even do you a solid with a collapsible table of contents ↓
Table of Content
Day One
Starting Point: 35 mins North of Toronto
Duration: 12 days in August of 2023
Transportation: Mazda CX-5 (We call him Bobby)
Destinations: Attractions along the way to PEI, Nova Scotia + Cape Breton Island
Stop 1: Victoriaville, QC
Drive time: ~8 hours. We drove straight through, only stopping at ON routes for bio breaks and stretches. We solely survived on energy drinks, baby tomatoes, celery sticks with ranch, and lots and lots of junk food. I Highly recommend packing snacks! (you probably knew that already.)
Airbnb Tip:
We’d stop in Montreal or Quebec City for the first night, but the Airbnb selections were few; the prices were high because we kicked off the trip on a long weekend. We opted for a downtown Airbnb in a town between the two cities, so there are plenty of things to do within walking distance.
Experience in Downtown Victoriaville:
Quaint! As I lack the vocabulary to describe cute little towns, you will see this often. We arrived at the Airbnb after dark and grabbed a “quick” bite at Cactus – a relaxed, old-school cafe bar featuring Mexican & Canadian pub grub. It took about 20 minutes to get the menu after being seated, and we waited an hour for the food. Call me hangry; I suggest you go elsewhere if other options are available to avoid the unnecessary wait.
Friendly Tip:
Unlikely restaurants in QC will have English menus, especially in non-touristy areas. Some restaurants will have their menu on their website; you can click a button on the phone to translate to English.
We explored the downtown area the next day before leaving in the morning, and I thoroughly enjoyed the vibe this charming little town offered. It’s nothing out of the ordinary, but if you are looking for a place to stop, consider giving Victoriaville a try!
Quote of the day
Ben in Victoriaville, QC, where all we hear is French
Everyone sounds a lot more sophisticated when I don’t know what they’re saying. Everything sounds very important.
Day Two
According to my research, aka Reddit, the drive after QC is quite a bore to sit through because the scenery contains nothing but asphalt and trees on repeat.
Well, I’m here to tell you nothing was a bore! Coming from Ontario, the province of flatlands, the new sceneries and landscapes were a feast for our eyes.
We looked as far as our eyes could see, tracing the outlines of the forest-covered mountains and watching how the clouds loomed over and beyond. We observed how the mountains parted the sky and marvelled at the newly paved winding roads leading us toward the horizon. The sight was nothing short of a photo in a travel magazine or one of those forest-zooming car commercials; we could even be on an episode of Budget Top Gear!
Along the drive, we saw isolated rain clouds showering one area and not the rest. We also caught rainbows and beautiful sunsets while listening to a mix of music, podcasts (My favourite murder, Not 4 Everyone), and audiobooks (Red Rising, Golden Son). The time flew by as we stared at the horizon ahead, driving on the smooth and empty roads with music on the stereo, our smiles wide, the weather swell, and it felt…like the best of Summer days.
Stop 2: Tête D’Allumette – Microbrasserie, QC
Drive Time: ~4 hours from Victoriaville. I planned to stop at this microbrewery because my partner, Ben, is very much of an “alcohol enthusiast.” If drinking is not your thing, don’t worry, you can still stop by for the view. The drive towards the brewery and the brewery itself were gorgeous; there’s even a trail on the property if you are up for it.
This spot is on the way to New Brunswick, about two hours outside Quebec City. They only offer finger food at ridiculously tiny portions with inflated price tags; make sure to bring something to munch on if you are anything like me, unable to enjoy a drink (lemonade) without any food.
Stop 3: Grand Falls, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~ 2 hours. The waterfall is situated right in the middle of downtown, so we took our time to scope out the area and the landscape while stretching our legs. Funny enough, the highlight of this stop was not the majestic waterfall or the picturesque downtown core. Instead, it was the ketchup-flavoured chicken nuggies from Burger King. I hope you are ready for Storytime!
Storytime
“I’m sorry for the long wait; I had to make these fresh for you guys,” The cashier made deliberate eye contact as he handed over the bag of goods -16 ketchup-flavoured chicken nuggies.
“Oh,” Feeling taken aback, I continued on, “Not a problem, thank you!” ultimately, I felt grateful for his kind gesture, even though his stares seemed to linger for moments too long.
With a bag of freshly fried nuggies, anticipation quickly replaced weariness at the thought of biting into a juicy nugget. Yum.
Eagerly, we walked out of Burger King, “Does it smell good?” Ben asked with anticipation. He lowered his nose into the paper bag and took a whiff, expecting the salivating smell of deep-fried heaven. Instead, I watched him stumble back, wincing as if punched in the face. His painstaking wince quickly turned into a wide-eyed disbelief with a shadow of horror, “Oh my god, babe, smell it!” He pushed the open bag under my nose.
I stared at him questionably and cautiously hovered my nose just above the paper bag to take a sniff.
“OH MY GAWD!” I screeched before processing. As I wore the expression of a squinting fox, my nostrils burned like I was force-fed a spoonful of wasabi, and my eyes watered like it was assaulted by a perfume purely made of onions.
Who knew ketchup could be this deadly?
After sharing a moment of stunned disbelief, we each picked up a nugget drenched in ketchup sauce, red liquid dripping down our fingers.
“Dink it and sink it,” We boinked the red blobs together and stuffed them down; the pungent ketchup flavour attacked our tongues, and disbelief spread across our faces once more.
I stuffed another firey blob in my mouth, “If carcinogens had a taste, it’d probably taste like this,” I mumbled as my tongue went numb at the intense ketchup flavour.
“I wonder who at the head office tasted this and said, yep, approved!” Ben dipped another nugget in honey garlic sauce.
And just like that, one after another, losing feelings in our tongues, we finished all 16 nuggets. There were no photos because our hands looked like we’d fingered the devil, and the white sweatpants I’d been wearing had ketchup and honey garlic smeared all over. It was a mess, to say the very least.
Would we order these ketchup nuggets again? Maybe only to find out if the cashier pranked us, but likely not. Would I recommend trying it once? 100%, but perhaps only get one order of 8 nuggets?
Stop 4: Hartland Covered Bridge, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~1 hour. We didn’t stay at Grand Falls for long and headed to the next attraction an hour away – the longest-covered bridge in the world. It’s as it sounds, a long bridge with a roof, and as Ben ever so eloquently put it, “A big barn built on top of the water.”
During our visit, the bridge was closed to cars. We crossed the tunnel on foot and enjoyed a lovely sunset before heading to our resting grounds.
Friendly Tip:
If you’re interested in exploring the town and shops, try getting there during the day, preferably not on Sundays, as most stores will close early. I know it’s obvious, but it’s something to consider if you are a meticulous planner.
Stop 5: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~1.5 hours. Much the same as the first day, we arrived at the Airbnb after dark and hurried out to find food before everything closed. The Airbnb, conveniently located in downtown Fredericton, was within walking distance of everything; I highly recommend it if you plan on visiting for a day or two.
For our meal of the day, we stopped by The Snooty Fox – a Chill tavern offering comfort fare such as shepherd’s pie & ribs, with a full bar & a rooftop patio.
As someone who doesn’t drink or crave pub cuisine, nothing was of note to me, but hey, it opens till two in the morning, so I can’t complain. Ben enjoyed their craft beer selection, and I was grateful to have food in my belly after a long day of snacking on tomatoes, celery sticks, chips, and cookies. Oh, the service was also MUCH better; we’re definitely at a net positive with Snooty.
Day Three
To my surprise, Fredericton has a lot to offer. Why am I surprised? Perhaps I was expecting to be in the boonies. Well, colour me a stupid big city gal because Fredericton is bumping; it has all the uniqueness of an up-and-coming city in the booming stage. The downtown core is characterized by local independent stores, reminding me of Toronto’s golden era of perhaps over a decade ago.
I’d stay an extra day if we had more than 12 days. But then again, an extra day would be nice for almost every city we visited during the trip 😛
Random Tip:
I Highly recommend picking an Airbnb that’s central to the downtown core in Fredericton; you’ll be able to leave the car without worrying about paying for parking and explore on foot. It worked out well for us as we also brought our longboards.
Speaking of longboards, the number one perk of going on a road trip? The ability to bring a bunch of stuff and the capacity to bring back a bunch of stuff. Not only did we pack both of our longboards, multiple pairs of shoes, two carry-on suitcases of clothes, and a small cooler, I also brought my skateboard and all the necessary protection equipment, such as knee pads and helmets. That was the second mission of this trip – to skate in each province.
As luck would have it, after visiting Snooty, we stumbled upon a paved trail next to the lake and a brand-spanking new skatepark. I was very excited to return during daylight, where we spent the first half of the day exploring Fredericton on our boards.
I fell in love with Fredericton a little that day. I loved how the wind rustled past my ears as I pumped and carved down the path by the lake. I loved how it made me feel when I closed my eyes, breathed in the breeze, felt the rush of joy and let it fill my heart; there was a strong feeling of gratitude as I took in the cloudy lakeside view and the winding road. I pushed as hard as I could, for a bit more speed, carving and pumping rhythmically, feeling weightless and free like a loose leaf circling in the wind. It was the development of a core memory I’ll always remember; the feeling of how wonderful it is to be alive.
The feelings and sensations are vivid, even as I write this months later. Maybe it was Fredericton, perhaps it was the magic of travelling and new experiences, or maybe it was the longboarding. Combined, they showed me an image of myself that matched who I had in mind, for once. I’ll take those moments as a reminder to live every day with a little sense of adventure, a sprinkle of carefreeness, and a whole heart of gratitude. Here is to bring a part of our vacationing selves to our everyday lives.
Stop 6: Magnetic Hill & Magnetic Hill Zoo, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~ 2 hours from Fredericton. We stopped halfway between Fredericton and Charlottetown (our first east coast destination) to drop by the Magnetic Hill attractions.
I do not regret checking it out, but I can’t say they are must-see spots. If you’ve been to a large city zoo, it’s pretty standard.
In terms of the Magnetic Hill, boy oh boy, we paid seven buckaroos to roll “up” the hill backwards in our car while in neutral gear. It’s a bit mind-boggling and intriguing, sure, but the Negative Nancy in me felt a teeny tiny bit scammed, just a little bit.
I think my face says it all. But hey, for the most part, all experience is a good experience on a trip. Just enjoy and don’t sweat the small stuff. I’m already here. What am I gonna do? Not be a tourist?
Friendly Tip:
If your gas tank is half full and the gas price seems outrageously high in NB, just fill your tank, my friend. The price will only increase as we travel further East. :’)
Stop 7: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island
Drive Time: ~2 hours. At last, we arrived at the first East Coast destination around golden hour on day 3. I was excited as I frantically looked out the left and right windows, not wanting to miss a single ocean view as Ben drove us across the uncovered Confederation Bridge that led us to the heart of PEI.
We’ve been lucky with the weather in the past three days, but as we arrived in PEI, the sky was partially covered with gray clouds threatening rain. However, it did not take away the beauty of the scenic drive towards Charlottetown.
Sometimes, the setting sun still peeked through the clouds, casting a golden patched sun ray onto the valley of farmlands, forming a chess board composed of golden and shadowy fields. The experience was beautiful, majestic, and filled with awe and anticipation. For once, we got to the Airbnb before dark.
Surprise, surprise, I booked another Airbnb that is a 10-minute walk to the downtown core of Charlottetown.
After checking out the premise of where we’d be staying, we hunted for something yummy to fill our tummies. By then, the rain began, but our mood of celebration for the official start of the East Coast journey did not deter; we decided to go ~a little fancy~.
Recommended by a friend who frequents PEI, and only a 5-minute walk, we gladly found ourselves on the covered patio of Slaymaker & Nichols Gastro House, listening to the rain pitter-patter on the tin roof, watching dusk dim into nightfall around us and our happy faces warmly lit by the soft flames of a nearby heater.
Friendly Tip:
The Gastro House was quite crowded! We got lucky with the seating. I’d recommend making a reservation if you are dying to try this place out during dinner.
At the beginning of the trip, we silently agreed upon the following: Ben would feed Bobby, our compact SUV, and in turn, I’d feed the humans, aka us. For this particular meal, while divine, I must highlight we ate two days’ worth of gas money (around 181.3¢/L) because I forgot Ben’s high enthusiasm for alcohol, a miscalculation on my part and a sad glimpse of the upcoming week for my wallet :’)
Nevertheless, my inner cries were quickly interrupted as we strolled into Chartlottown’s downtown. Soon enough, fascination overrode my frugal drive.
Across the street, right next to each other, a cluster of independently owned used bookstores stood next to each other: The Book Emporium, The Bookman, and The Comic Hunter were all still open at 10 in the evening, despite their hours saying otherwise. Forgive me for going on about something seemingly mundane; I just love the idea that local small businesses still dominate the corners of Charlottetown, and the population supports not one but many independently owned-stores. What a wonderful thing for the town.
Day Four
Despite the looming clouds threatening to rain, we still got our beach by the ocean day! We started the day with breakfast by the harbour at Receiver Vic Row – Bi-level, a brick-lined coffee shop with espresso drinks, a cafe menu & pastries, plus outdoor seats.
We got some nice egg bennies, mandatory coffee for Ben, and optional decaf for me (yep, no caffeine or alcohol for me, I’m boring like that), and we are off to be energetic tourists around Charlottetown.
Stop 8: Cavendish Beach, Prince Edward Island
Drive Time: ~1 hour from Charlottetown. I’m unsure if it’s just me, or collectively as a culture, there’s a romanticization of the ocean. At least with the Asian cultures I’m familiar with, there’s a significance to “going to see the ocean” as if it’s the deliberate action of being romantic and carefree. It’s also why, several years back, when I saw the ocean for the first time in Vancouver, I felt obligated to dip a finger in just so I could say, “Yep, been there, done that.” Whatever it symbolizes, I’m a sucker for it. I looked forward to being fully immersed in sea water for the very first time.
Yaa yaa, It’S jUsT tHe OcEaN, I hear you say. You forget I’m an Ontario lake peasant, so don’t go yucking my yum now; you’re still on this journey with me, and we’ve come far! Let me tell you all about my first swim in the ocean. Well, swim is a strong word; it was more like getting smacked in the face by the waves. Yep, the term “The Ocean” hits a little differently now, physically and metaphorically.
Are you the type to get the shock of cold water over with by dunking yourself in, or are you similar to me, wearily lowering the body into the cold water with your jaw clenching and teeth gritting at every new inch of skin exposed? I finally adjusted to the 14-degree water after about 10 minutes of screaming.
Once adjusted, it didn’t take long to find the simple joys of the ocean – wave hopping. Just like how it sounds, each time a tide rushed towards us, we’d bend our knees and make a jump forward. Laughing, splashing, and floating in the salty sea, much like children, before things took a “darker” turn.
Dun.dun.dunnnn.
Wave hopping, or generally being in the sea, is all fun and games until one misjudges the size of the incoming waves. Sometimes, a splash in the face held so much force it left my ears and nose waterlogged. Each time, it left a shockingly salty taste in my mouth, definitely not something I was used to.
More often than not, unable to hear or breathe, a second wave would follow, knocking the already disoriented me off my footing, and after losing the little control I had, the waves would continue. I’d struggle to fight against the waves only to learn it was easier to relax and lean into the tides. It was a cycle of excitement, waves coming, going under, quick fear, everything turned out okay, followed by excitement again.
I pretty much did that repeatedly while awkwardly adjusting my bikini underwater as the waves shifted it around. Not sure if I just never had good-fitting bikinis, or it’s just not for my itty bitty titties. I always had to adjust them in fear of an accidental half-skinny dipping incident.
As I was preoccupied with the above-mentioned actions after a wave, a rollercoaster of emotions, really. I watched Ben resurface from the water with his naked face. He, who cannot legally drive without glasses and cannot see his phone at arm’s length without glasses, who is blind as a bat without glasses, has emerged from the water with his face bare, like a baby’s bum.
Storytime
I felt around the sandbed with my foot, hoping for the slight chance that I’d step on the glasses and we’d laugh about it in 20 minutes with Ben’s vision safely restored. I had a lot on my mind, mainly around the idea that Ben couldn’t possibly enjoy the rest of the trip, and we’d just begun. More importantly, he’s also the main driver since I’m still building confidence as a “new” driver, how are we going to get through the rest of the trip?
“We’ll find it,” I thought briefly, “the ocean isn’t gonna do this to us,” another thought followed, and I immediately felt how ridiculous it was. The ocean isn’t gonna do this to us? The ocean doesn’t give a flying fuck about anybody, let alone us. Who are we? The “Main Characters”? Absolute insanity.
“There’s no way we’re gonna find it,” I corrected myself loudly, observing the tides that were still coming and going, not stopping for anyone or anything, as they should.
Ben, who was not far from me, moved his hands blindly underwater. A wave smacked over his head, followed by another. He wore the expression of a blind man trying his hardest to see, and my danger alarm started to ring.
“C’mon, let’s get out of the water first,” Anxious thoughts marinated in my mind, I grabbed Ben’s hand and began walking back to shore.
“Are you okay?” I asked after finding our way back to the picnic blanket laid on top of the finely sanded beach.
“Yeah, I still have a pair of prescription sunglasses in the car,” Ben shrugged.
“You will have to wear it day and night; you won’t be able to see anything at night!” I said, a wave of guilt washing over me. I felt terrible for him.
“It’s fine. At least I can still see,” Ben replied nonchalantly. He never seemed to fret over the things that easily flustered me and to be fair, most things flustered me.
“Are you sure you feel okay?” I asked again, concerned he was secretly feeling down. I was fully prepared to tell him it was okay. I could do the night driving. It’s not ideal, but I’ll do my darn best. It’s also be a bit weird for him to wear sunglasses indoors, but it’s not a big deal either, we can make it work.
“I’m okay if you are okay,” He looked at me with those bare eyes, and I realized I was making it a bigger deal than it was; I always did when things went slightly haywire.
All I needed was a quick mentality shift: The good news is having a pair of prescription sunglasses; the best news is there being a pair of prescription sunglasses in the first place. I cannot imagine how the trip would turn out if we had nothing. I guess we’re two lucky ducks after all.
We spent the rest of the hour in the water since Ben couldn’t possibly lose anything else. However, I still clutched him tightly every time he drifted too far. You know, in case he blindly gets carried away by a big wave. What can I say, a worrier will always be a worrier.
We left the beach that day with awe, respect, and a bit of fear for the ocean.
Perhaps I was being overly dramatic and sensitive, but fear and worry are an innate response when we experience something foreign; that’s the case for me, at least.
Ben losing his glasses wasn’t a big deal, but I saw it as a gentle reminder. Indeed, Mother Nature is scary.
As obvious as it sounds, it’s a sentiment that’s easy to forget. I’m always one to read too much into mundane events, so I’m grateful it was a pair of glasses and nothing more. It served as a reminder to reflect on the sheltered life I’ve grown accustomed to, where there’s always the illusion of control when there is really none.
See, I told you things took a darker turn.
Stop 9: New Glasgow Lobster Suppers, Prince Edward Island
After a scenic hike around the national park where Cavendish Beach is situated, we pulled up at the Cavendish boardwalk filled with souvenir shops. Like any good tourists, we got PEI logoed t-shirts to prove we’ve been there once upon a time. We then excitedly headed to our meal of the day: New Glasgow Lobster Suppers – Opened in 1958, a seasonal eatery that serves fixed-price lobster meals in an airy dining hall. 1.5 pounds of lobster for me; a plate of surf and turf for Ben; and buckets of mussels with multiple appetizers and desserts later; we were as happy as a clam.
There really isn’t anything fancy about the spot; it’s a well-oiled machine to churn out large plates of food by the dozen. Did I feel like the parents of Chihiro in Spirited Away while stuffing my face with endless bread, appetizers, and creatures of the Sea? I did, but the other voice in my head told me to shut up and just enjoy indulgence in peace for once in my life.
Day Five
At last, on the fifth day, the rain came pouring. Despite being soaked during our walk because we bought a terrible umbrella that flipped a dozen times, we were determined to stop by Water Prince Corner Shop to try the best lobster rolls in town.
Friendly Tip:
I recommend calling ahead of time to reserve a spot if you are set on this place. We arrived around 10 A.M. and were lucky to have been squeezed in. The majority of the tables were reserved, and a line of customers without reservations showed up after us.
Do you get spooked when seeing Market Price on the menu? I sure do. I think it comes from a deep fear of relinquishing control because my wallet is hypothetically in their hands…
Regardless, we came for the rolls and the rolls we shall receive at $27 apiece. Good thing it was darn delicious.
For our final stop before leaving the island, we dropped by the Book Emporium. Painstakingly, I found a book to purchase despite the lack of need for one; it was my feeble attempt to support the elderly gentleman who ran the shop, who still used manual cash registers and hand-wrote his receipts. I found fondness in the little bookstore and the store owner’s demeanour, passion, and way of life. I think deep down, I have a little love for him. Well, I loved the idea of him and the life he led that I’ve conjured up in my mind. It is likely incorrect, so yes, I’m aware I’m psychotic.
Stop 10: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
Drive Time: ~4 hours from Charlottetown.
I planned to visit Charlottetown first, followed by Halifax and Cape Breton, because it had the least drive time between the three places. If you are going from PEI to NS, there is a ferry option; we opted to drive the entire way.
Friendly Reminder:
On our way out of the island, as an FYI, we paid a toll fee of $50.25. If your vehicle has more than 2 axles, each additional axle is $8.50.
In Ben and I’s exhaustion, we forgot to stop by Hopewell Rocks on the way to NS. If you are interested, don’t be like us!
During the time of booking, there weren’t good options available in Halifax, so I booked an Airbnb in downtown Dartmouth instead. It’s a 30-minute walk to downtown Halifax, and I picked this place because it was converted from an old bank that promised chocolates. Not a bad way of making decisions, if I may say so myself.
Since we skipped Hopewell Rocks, we had more time than usual to wander. We walked across the Angus L.Macondald bridge connecting Dartmouth to Halifax around sunset and found ourselves on the patio of Good Robot Brewing Co. – Taproom & Store – Lively establishment offering up brunch, bar bites & beers, plus an onsite brewery & a beer garden.
The beer was aight, according to Ben; the food was meh, according to me; the vibes, though, were prime.
After some more wandering, we stopped by Burger King for some regular chicken nuggies before returning to the Airbnb.
Why so few activities, you ask? The night has fallen, and if you recall, Ben is still wearing them sunglasses.
Day Six
Stop 11: Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia
Drive Time: ~1 hour from Dartmouth.
Looking back, Peggy’s Cove was one of my favourite experiences during the trip (get ready for the incoming wave of photos) because it involved gorgeous views, the friendliest folks, great souvenirs, enjoyable foods, and a big adorable flooooooff ball.
I will elaborate.
First off, the weather – GORGEOUS. Bright blue skies with a few specks of decorative clouds stretched from coast to coast, despite the forecast warning cloudy with a chance of rain; we felt extremely fortunate as we looked afar and watched the open sky meeting its ocean counterpart at the horizon. The sun was shining just right, and the wind added a refreshing breeze as the temperature climbed throughout the day; it was just the perfect weather to explore and hop and bop around the large boulders by the lighthouse.
We met Mary Lynne Macka, a lovely resident artist of the cove and her adorable 13-year-old Swiss German Shepherd. It must be the fresh air and the fish diet because this fluff ball doesn’t look a day older than 2 and loves to swim in the ocean (what a life). Mary told us stories about her eventful life and how she eventually ended up in Peggy’s Cove about a decade ago. At Peggy’s, she lives her best life amongst the 34 all-year-round permanent residents of the cove, where she paints every day by the sea.
In honour of this memorable trip, we purchased her painting of the lighthouse using the sword of a swordfish as the canvas.
We then stopped by the hot dog stand next door, also run by a permanent resident, where we ordered two “Seagull Screamers.” The sun was blaring by then, so we sat on giant chairs by the ocean, enjoyed an ice-cold pop, and hastily devoured the meal.
By the time we finished, we were just in time for a performance session by Mairi Rankin and Wendy Maclsaac at The SchoolHouse, where we learned about traditional Cape Breton fiddle music and its importance in Scottish heritage. At first, we weren’t sure if we wanted to attend the brief 30-minute session; looking back, I’m glad we did.
I learned it’s more fun to say yes to experiences during a trip and accept the adventures that come my way. Perhaps not a bad idea to apply it to daily life as well.
Friendly Tip:
Try to get to Peggy’s Cove early; even 10 or 11 A.M. is fine. Show up past noon, and you will have difficulty finding parking and navigating the pedestrian-filled streets.
Stop 12: Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
Drive Time: 1.5 hours
We didn’t plan on visiting Lunenburg but somehow wound up there despite it being in the opposite direction of Halifax.
When I google mapped Lunenburg to see how far it is, I thought I set the GPS to downtown Halifax after deciding not to go. Well, jokes on us, we drove for an hour before realizing we were well on our way. Here’s to saying yes to whatever adventures come our way. I suppose.
Friendly Tip:
Lunenburg is a walkable town with lots of novelty shops and art galleries. We only stayed for a few hours before returning to our original destination. If you have the extra time, sure, have a visit. Why not.
Stop 13: Downtown Halifax, Nova Scotia
Can I just say, as someone coming from the GTA, that Halifax is bumping?? The harbour is simply prime! It’s filled with bustling local restaurants, and there are tons of boardwalks and open spaces to stroll around. We even bumped into a Beer Festival on a Thursday, on a Thursday! Once it was dark, all the bars and clubs were lined up out the door. Again, on a Thursday! Call me a grandma, but it was fascinating for someone like me who happily lives a suburban life outside of Toronto.
After 6 days of pub cuisines and seafood, we’d be lying if we said our tummies craved anything other than Asian food. If noods are our salvation, then Ramen is our saviour.
Day Seven
Before heading further East, we stopped by Halifax Harbour again to check out the Canadian KI8I battleship in WWII, a free exhibit supported by donations. We then filled our tummies with another fix of Ramen for lunch, which tied us over for the next several days in Cape Breton.
Broth House, a friendly server with a chef reminded me of Josh from Mythical Kitchen!
I briefly fantasized about what it would be like to run a two-person Ramen shop with Ben before promptly remembering we sometimes struggle to feed just ourselves. I’m definitely having a lot of learnings and revelations along the way. I started the road trip thinking Ontario would be my forever home, and I left Fredericton and Halifax thinking maybe I shouldn’t be so sure.
Stop 14: Baddeck, Nova Scotia
Drive Time: ~3.5 hours. Before we headed into Baddeck, where we’d be staying for the next couple of days as we explored Cape Breton National Park and Fortress of Louisbourg, we found ourselves at The Curious Collector – an antique shop by the side of the road that caught my eyes.
We ended up buying a second batch of souvenirs for friends and family back home and had a lovely chat with the store owner, Robert, who proudly showed us around his treasure-filled store (WWII medical stretcher pictured on the right)
Friendly Tip
If you are headed to Baddeck from Halifax, I don’t think you will miss the shop. I recommend stopping by to see what kind of gems you will find if treasure hunting is your thing. The shop’s got a Needful Things vibe. Well, minus the evil!
By the time we got to Baddeck, it’s been a week of nonstop go-go-go, and we were looking worse for wear. The homesickness kicked in around the 5th day and settled in nicely by the 7th. Hence, we dropped by Tom’s Pizza for a 16-inch Za before retreating back to our last Airbnb on the East Coast and calling in an early night. The rain was pouring by then; it was just the perfect night to catch up on some much-needed rest.
Day 8
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy. If the minimal planning I did thus far seemed smooth sailing, this is where the flaws of lack of planning showed and bit us in the behind. If I could re-plan this portion of the trip, the itinerary for the next 3 days would look very different. Alas, this is where the adventure led us.
Stop 15: Cape Clear, Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Drive Time: ~1.5 hours from Baddeck. Here is what you need to know about Cape Clear: It’s absolutely gorgeous. Simply breathtaking. You must visit!*
Friendly Warning*:
Here is what you need to beware about Cape Clear: Bring physical maps and pre-load your Google/digital maps. There are no cell services and be prepared for a bumpy ride. If you are in a sedan, skip this and pay for a tour.
We got new tires for Bobby in preparation for the road trip, yet, my butt was clenched, and my shoulders were still tense for the entire ride leading up to Cape Clear. I wish I could say the same about Ben, but I think he was having fun. I, on the other hand, have well-established I’m a worrier, and that’s precisely what I did.
The road condition is, I don’t know, off-roading conditions? At one point, we were purely driving on rocks. My suburban girlie lifestyle where I only drove to the grocery stores did not prepare me for this, and I wasn’t even the one driving. I was convinced a tire would pop or something at the bottom of the car would peel off on the rocks, and we’d be stranded with no way to call for help. It’s an understatement to say I was both scared and worried shitless.
We met some cute free-ranging cows, though, so that was nice. I kept the window closed in case the cows were in a feisty mood. We also saw half-bloated dead deer carcasses, that was less nice.
After a dozen times of me wanting to call off the ride and ask Ben to drive back, we finally stumbled our way to Cape Clear.
“Dammnnnn” was all I could manage before forgetting about the hardship of getting there and becoming mesmerized by the view. I can’t describe the sereness that washed over us when we stood at the lookout point. Here are some pictures, but they do not do Cape Clear justice.
On our way back from Cape Clear, we wanted to go to another lookout point, but the reality very much differed. We gave up after becoming very lost without physical maps or GPS signals. We drove up and down the rocky road for about 1.5 hours searching for the lookout point and another 1.5 hours before finding our way back to a spot with signal. Once we got back on the main road, I never thought I’d be so happy to feel the smoothness of paved concrete.
Stop 16: Glenora Inn & Distillery
Drive Time: ~1.5 hours. How does one calm one’s nerves after going for an unprepared off-roading trip?
Why, whisky tasting, of course! Well, Whisky tasting for Ben, food binging for me; we all have our vices.
By no means at all a must-see spot unless you are in the area already. I planned these brewery and distillery visits in exchange for skatepark visits. Some attractions for Ben, and some attractions for me; some call it a compromise, I call it a win-win!
Stop 17: Skyline Trail (Failed Attempt) + Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Unsatisfied with how things ended at Cape Breton in the morning, we decided to try again after dinner. This time, we downloaded the entire map of Nova Scotia, and we were prepared to go to the Skyline trail to watch the sunset. The only problem? It was 6 P.M., we were 1.5 hours away, and the trail takes 2-3 hours to complete. To add salt to the injury, we drove past the visitor center without knowing we needed a park visit pass, and there was no chance of returning to the visitor center and finishing the trail before dark.
For peace of mind, we decided to try again the next day.
Friendly Tip:
For any trails within Cape Breton National Park, a park pass is required. You can purchase it either online or at the visitor center. Yeah, I’m sure this is a no-brainer, but I didn’t know due to my lack of planning. Don’t be like us!
Thankfully, the path we took this time was the main entrance of Cape Breton (Cabot Trail). Not only were there smoothly paved roads across the winding mountains but there were also lookout points along the drive where we could stop to admire the sunset. I think humans are innately wired to appreciate an orange-setting sun. There is a burning desire that we cannot look away.
In the presence of such a beautiful scene, Ben and I embraced each other in a half hug, surrounded by mountains on the left and the sea on the right. We rested our heads together and enjoyed the quiet moment. I was grateful that despite things going off track, we still managed to find joyful moments throughout the chaos simply because we had each other.
We attempted to get going before dark, only to stop not too far from a beach near the exit of Cape Breton.
We listened to the waves wash up the shore and retreat through the pebbles. More quiet moments of the sunset were enjoyed, until Ben started walking along the shoreline, seemingly searching for something.
With hands on his hip, he looked back and asked, “You think my glasses will wash up here?”
I drove us back to the Airbnb on winding mountain roads that day after dark.
Day 9
Friendly Tip:
Cape Breton’s weather forecast is extremely unreliable, so take it with a grain of salt when planning activities. We tried to accommodate the weather forecast 24 hours ahead since it appeared it would rain every day. In reality, it was only rainy for one night. We wasted a lot of time driving back and forth between attractions trying to time the weather. The silver lining is that the view is always spectacular!
Stop 18: Fortress of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia
Drive Time: 1.5 hours from Baddeck. For the first half of the day, we went to the Fortress of Louisbourg, a National Historic Site with partial reconstruction of an 18th-century French fortress.
Friendly Tip:
Make sure to go to the visitor center instead of following Google Maps. They have shuttle buses running that will take you to the historical site. If you follow Google Maps, you will find yourself lost without a signal! The fortress is open until 5 in the afternoon, and you can easily spend the whole day there if you want to look through everything.
We tried some authentic 18th-century cuisine. The rabbit stew was sooo delicious.
Stop 19: Skyline Trail (Failed Attempt), Cape Breton Highlands National Park
When we began the drive back to Cape Breton, wanting to catch the sunset, everything proved against our odds of making it. Nevertheless, we still drove the 3 hours, praying the GPS overestimated the drive and hoping we’d get lucky.
Well, you can tell what happened by the title. This ain’t no movie where the main characters make it against all odds. Nope, just two struggling millennials who failed at planning. We did have a beautiful sunset the day before, so it wasn’t all a lost cause.
We got to the visitor center right before they closed at 8 p.m. to purchase a park visit pass. The admission clerk was surprised at how late we showed up for a hike and exchanged glances with the park ranger as we laughed and shrugged, saying we’d give it a shot anyway.
In the end, the park ranger recommended a closer and shorter trail near the park entrance because there was no way we’d make it to the Skyline Trail in time.
Feeling bummed, we walked towards Bobby, and I felt the clerk’s gaze on us and their silent exchange of glances as we left. They probably judged us to be some dumb city kids, and they were 100% right.
Storytime
By the time we got to the trail entrance, it was pretty clear we had no chance of sighting a setting sun. The whole sky was covered with a dark sheet of gray with low rumbles in the distance. Nonetheless, we took an umbrella as a precaution and stepped into the woods. There was a heaviness in the air, but not because of the oncoming rain.
“Don’t you feel like we could have planned this better? Why did we drive 3 hours to come here when we know we won’t be able to see anything,” I said begrudgingly, feeling nauseated from the amount of driving we did for the past two days leading up to now. We drove 8 hours a day when we were supposed to be sightseeing, that was a lot of valuable travel time we wasted.
“Who should have planned better? Who are you referring to?” Ben replied defensively.
For the first time since the start of the road trip, of us spending 24/7 together for 9 straight days, we began bickering.
I started to answer. “I just feel like -“
“Ow!” Ben flinched and smacked his head. I was about to continue, but Ben smacked his head again and ducked lower. That’s when I noticed a couple of giant black flies hovering above his head.
We didn’t think much of it and continued walking. The trail was only 3 kilometres, and we were already a kilometre in. Why stop now? We did, however, pause our conversation to concentrate on swatting the flies away. We managed about another 500 meters before the one-off buzzing became a constant, and soon, a swarm of black flies bounced energetically above Ben’s head, each diving in for a piece of his scalp.
“Oh gawd, we should head back!” I said, scared. We didn’t walk, we RAN. The two of us covered our heads as we jogged, cautiously jumping over protruding roots. It was the longest 1.5km run of my life, and while we were being chased by black flies, I started cackling. My initial sourness dissolved as I found the humour in this bewildered situation. Ben, on the other hand, wasn’t so lighthearted with his head covered in bumps.
By the time we got back to Bobby, it was dark, and the rain began to drizzle. The feeling of defeat soon washed over me, clearing the little humour I found about the situation. Annoyed at how things turned out, I began the 1.5-hour drive back on the lampless rainy roads.
The park ranger and the admission clerk were right. Who did we think we were but some dumb city kids that didn’t understand the force of nature? Better planning next time.
( I don’t have a single picture of this part of the journey, that’s how bummed we were lol)
Day 10
Stop 20: Skyline Trail (Beautiful Success), Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Day 10 is when we neared the end of our journey in the sense that it was time to start the drive West. Having felt grossly tired of the unnecessary back-and-forth driving between Day 8 and 9, the chances of giving Skyline Trail another try felt slim. But, at last, you can tell by the subheading that we indeed gave it a third try, and the third try, friends, turned out to be extremely beautiful, partly because of all the previous failed attempts. It gave our trip the climactic ending that I’ll remember fondly. But first, another story time.
Storytime
As I approached the last year of my twenties, my sleep grew light and sometimes non-existent, especially when I felt anxious or stressed from real or perceived threats. I say perceived because I’ve caught myself sobbing purely from imaginative events. What? You do that too? Don’t worry, I won’t tell anyone, we can be psychos together.
On the 10th night of the road trip, I lay on the Airbnb bed in Baddeck feeling the familiar anxiousness drowning my brain. The weariness always starts with making a mess of the head before making its way down to the heart, making the heart heavy while forcing the drumming beat to go quicker. Then, the chaos travelled down from the spine, spreading to the limbs, and before I knew it, I’d find myself curled up in a ball with cold sweat covering my limbs. My eyes would be tired, signalling the desperation for sleep, but my mind would be wide awake, murmuring, whispering, and denying any chance of rest.
Our travel plans didn’t quite pan out how I wanted in the past 2 days. We’d driven over 2,000 kilometres to experience a sense of failure. I could tell myself that we’d just come back another time, but that’d be a lie. A lot of things that are undone are often left for later, but that later will realistically never come. We can only experience certain things once at a specific time, and this road trip experience will likely be one of them. It’s better to soak in the moment than to hope for a second chance.
On that 10th night, regret and guilt filled my core as I ruminated on the lost opportunities. I drifted in and out of the door of sleep as the night went on but never fully stepped through. By 5 A.M., I was wide awake again. Not wanting to disturb Ben any longer with my tossing and turning, I slipped out of the Airbnb and into the morning air, being on my own for the first time since the beginning of the trip.
The rain from last night left the morning air with an edge of crispness. The birds chirped, and the air resembled the freshness of Cape Clear. If liberation and exhilaration can be used to describe the feeling of a breath of air, that’s how I’d describe it.
With an added spring to my steps, I walked down the slight hill towards the center of Baddeck, a quaint little town nestled quietly against the backdrop of high mountains covered by swirls of fog. The serene and enlightening sight cleared away the ruins in my mind left behind by anxiety; my heart felt light again, and my limbs were as warm as the thought of gratitude on Thanksgiving. Last night’s dread and guilt were almost washed clean.
At half past seven, the Outdoors Store’s open sign was on. Surprised by how early they opened, I strolled over because I wanted to check them out for the past 2 days. I just never got the chance. To my further surprise, the doors were closed but unlocked. I thought I shouldn’t be there till I found the sign on the door, “If you need to purchase anything outside of working hours, I live right around the corner. Give me a ring, and I will be right there.”
Bewildered at the open invitation, I walked into the empty store stocked to the brim and immediately felt the awkwardness of being in a store with no employees; I felt like I was snooping and I shouldn’t be there at all. It was a strange feeling to learn how trusting the people of Baddeck were, and I immediately wished I was a part of something like this with relentless trust.
As inviting as it was, I couldn’t find anything I wanted to purchase. I exited the shop and headed further down the streets, and I was delighted to find a bustling coffee shop that served breakfast. As I browsed the store, I was greeted by many signs with “I had Chowder for breakfast” written on it.
“Do you guys actually have chowder for breakfast?” I pointed to the signs after deciding on the sandwiches for the drive back to Ontario.
“We sure do!” The barista answered cheerfully.
“Then let’s add a chowder!” I matched his enthusiasm.
“Here, I will take a picture of you.” He handed me the sign without waiting for a response.
For a split second, all I could remember was how I barely slept. I rolled out of bed in capris and Ben’s sweatshirt. The one day where I decide to go out without braiding my hair or fill in my brows, and somebody offers to take a photo of me. I probably still had sleep in my eyes.
“Oh, what the heck.” I interrupted myself in my own mind, muting the voices all at once and handed over my phone.
In the depth of a silenced mind, I smiled.
The barista captured a special moment for me where for the first time in the 2 months that I’ve turned 29, I stopped trying to pretend I wasn’t entering my 30s. In the photo, I look and felt 29, and I felt a sense of acceptance and relief. At that moment, I was as happy as a clam (chowder) in my bare skin and sweats.
Hell to the fucking yes.
I returned to the Airbnb feeling re-energized, and when I locked eyes with Ben, who had finally woken up, we knew we ought to give the Skyline Trail another chance before leaving for New Brunswick, even if it meant we’d have to drive for 8 hours straight. We packed our bags in a swift motion after finishing the delicious chowder and loaded the car. The park pass we purchased last night expires at four in the afternoon, so even though everything felt like it was going wrong for the past two days, things felt like they were somehow clicking into place, as if that was the plan all along. The human mind, or my mind at least, makes up all sorts of reasonings in the face of randomness. What can I say? I’m a romantic at heart.
The Skyline Trail turned out to be my favourite attraction of the trip. It was simply beautiful, unworldly, and indescribable. I’m glad we gave it one more try and persisted in saying yes to all the ups and downs of adventures, regardless of how we got there.
Satisfied with immense gratitude, we hopped in Bobby and began the drive home.
Stop 21: Harvey, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~8 hours. Already behind schedule, we drove back to New Brunswick as fast as possible. Yet, we still pulled up the lampless winding roads and arrived at the Airbnb after ten in the evening.
If I hadn’t known I reserved an Airbnb beside a lake, I wouldn’t have guessed there was a lake, that’s how dark everything was.
After stepping out the car, we took a moment and admired the star-filled sky with little light pollution. We then stuffed our faces with food, showered, snuffed out the light, and hit the hay ASAP in preparation for the long drive the next day.
Meal of the day? Some good old Kentucky Fried Chicken, finger-licking good.
Day 11
I picked cities that we hadn’t stayed in, and by chance, I stumbled on an Airbnb right next to a lake that provided kayaks. Roy and his wife, a lovely couple that’s the host of the Airbnb, generously set the check-out time at noon and allowed us to get our rows in before leaving for the day.
It was such a pleasant experience to be out on the calm lake water first thing in the morning, very different from our first encounter with the ocean, if I may say so.
I highly recommend anyone looking for a place to rest for the night to stop by here. Roy even provided a simple breakfast with homemade marmalade; such lovely and thoughtful human beings, it’s no wonder they have a 4.98 review on Airbnb.
Stop 22 Potato World, New Brunswick
Drive Time: ~1 hour. What comes to mind when you hear the words “Potato World”? I don’t think I’ve heard of a more beautiful name.
Friendly Tip:
The Potato World museum is not necessary unless you are extremely interested in the makings of potat and the various farm tools required.
During our visit, they just begun expanding the outdoor section with games; it looked like they were experimenting with the activities.
I do highly recommend grabbing lunch at Potato World.
So. Many. Ways. Of. Making. Delicious. Potats.
Stop 23 Downtown Montreal, QC
Drive Time: ~8 hours. At the beginning of the trip, I remember stipulating to Ben that the drive back would be brutal simply because the drive toward the destinations contained so much anticipation and excitement. The drive back would feel like a chore since we’d be so worn and tired with nothing to look forward to.
At the time, Ben predicted we’d look forward to going home, and I didn’t believe him then. Well, I believe him now, he was a wise homebody indeed.
We binged through “Golden Son” on Audible, the second book of the Red Rising Saga, and enjoyed the view around us while our hearts eagerly anticipated the comfort of home.
By the time we arrived at Downtown Montreal, it was late and dark. We picked up some delicious Portuguese dinner from Restaurant Casa Vinho and hit the hay, purely looking forward to the idea that we’d be home the next day.
Day 12
I can’t in good conscience recommend the Downtown Montreal Airbnb we stayed at. I will link it in case you are in a similar situation where there aren’t many good options available, and you want to visit attractions like the Olympic Skatepark, Biodome, and Botanical Garden which is a 20-minute walk away.
All I will say is if you’re just looking for a place to rest for the night, it’s a little sketchy; our car didn’t get smashed, so I guess it was…fine.
Stop 24 Van’s Olympic Skatepark, QC
We checked out early in the morning and headed for the Olympic Skatepark, a highly anticipated landmark I’ve been waiting to skate. And skate I did, but I won’t bore you with it in this post; I’ll do that in a future post 🙂
After the exhilarating skate sesh, instead of checking out the Biodome and Botanical Garden as planned, we kept driving because the longing for home was becoming too strong.
If it were up to Ben, he would have driven throughout last night to get us home. If it weren’t for the pesky sunglasses at night situation.
Stop 25 Downtown Kingston, Ontario
With home being only 4 hours away, we were caught between wanting to be home and not wanting the trip to end just yet.
Having nagged Ben about visiting Kingston since the beginning of the trip, he finally caved, and we dropped by for lunch and a quick stroll that put a nice touch to the end of our trip.
Ben couldn’t understand my obsession with Kingston. To him, it was just another city he visited during childhood. I, on the other hand, have never been. Growing up, I always heard about family friends who visited Kingston while my mom and I stayed stationary. I guess that’s where the fondness for the city stemmed from. Deep in my memory, Kingston is where folks visited on a weekend to have a good time, and now I wanted to do that, too.
Guess what? Kingston is bumping. For a University town, it’s much more developed than my memory of London, Ontario. Although I haven’t been there for a long time, it must be very different now too.
Kingston Downtown wasn’t just “another city”; it was cool and lively, filled with unique local shops with the right vibes. It’s also a 10 minutes walk down to the harbour, and if you can’t tell by now, I’m a sucker for a short walk to the harbour.
Stop 26 Home Sweet Home
I’m 29, and I don’t drive frequently. I’m surviving as an occasional driver with a G2 license, a non-permanent Ontario driver’s license that expires within 5 years of ownership unless I take another exam to upgrade it to a permanent license. On the off chance when I do drive, especially to places I’m unfamiliar with that require the GPS, one of my favourite things is hearing the female Google Maps voice say, “Welcome Home” at the end of the trip. It’s a soft but firm voice that adds the perfect dramatic flare to turn any mundane errand into a journey where you’ve been away, and now, you’re finally returning home.
Not that it actually happened when we pulled up to our driveway. Ben drives with the GPS muted because he doesn’t like his tools talking to him without permission. It’s kind of snobby if you ask me. In any case, I imagined the melodramatic voice welcoming us home and drawing the curtains for this grand trip filled with memories. However, little did I expect that it didn’t end there.
Once we entered the door, Ben and I dispersed in different directions. I went around the house to see if my plant babies survived the two-week drought and made sure nothing horrendous happened to the house while we were away. Ben looked for his second pair of glasses, and when we reconvened, for the first time in 8 days, I saw Ben’s eyes! I watched his eyes widen as his world finally returned to its original level of brightness.
You know what else I didn’t expect? The intense feeling of gratitude and contentedness as I returned to routine mundane tasks for the next several days. When I lay in our bed, I let myself fully sink in, feeling the linens as I fluttered around, forming sheet angles. I’d roll around the bed wondering, “Why is it so damn comfortable??”.
I’d go on morning walks, stride past sceneries I’ve seen a hundred times and notice how the sunlight seeped through the leaves while the wind ruffled tall bushes, waving the branches around like one of those inflatable tube men in a parking lot. I’d close my eyes and take a deep breath, feeling the cool breeze against my skin, and I’d be reminded how I’ve done the same while longboarding in Fredericton, standing on the boulders of Peggy’s Cove, and watching the skyline at Cape Breton. I’m reminded I can take appreciation with me everywhere I go, even if it’s a familiar place, and create a sense of curiosity and adventure in everyday life.
It’s a great thing, isn’t it, the feeling of how wonderful it is to be alive.
The End
Are you still here? It’s been ten thousand words! Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed the experience that I tried to create. If you’re looking for the summarized version with cost breakdowns, there is a post HERE. Drop me a thought on what you liked or didn’t like, and let me know if you have any questions. I’d love to hear from you!
Thanks again for reading; we’ll talk again soon.
Kate
Kate LSY 
Leave a comment